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MENS DRESSING TIPS

OCCASIONS

Interview - Dress Casual - Daily Wear - Formal - Seasonal Trends

Dress Shirts

COLLAR

Depending on the type of knot you like to use on your ties, there are collars that go hand in hand with each.

Point Collar
The point collar goes with any style of suit and even works well without a tie.

Spread Collar
A spread collar is fashionable and works well in a casual atmosphere. It should always be worn with a tie and by a man with a smaller neck.

Tab Collar
A tab collar keeps the collar closely around the tie knot by snapping together behind it. It adds elegance and sophistication to any suit.

Button-down
A button down collar keeps the collar stationary. It is your least formal option and should not be worn with a double breasted suit.

FABRIC
When choosing a fabric, keep in mind the type of environment you will be working in. If the company requires you to travel outside the office you may want to consider a cooler shirt in warmers seasons and vice versa. Picking the composition of the fabric you will be wearing is very important. Will you want 100% cotton or a blend? Here are the two most commonly used fabrics in dress shirts, along with a few characteristics of each:

100% Cotton
This is a softer and more breathable fabric
More comfortable
Wrinkles easier and needs to be pressed regularly
Will shrink more over time

Cotton Blend
Can be blended with a variety of other fabrics (i.e. Polyester, Rayon, Silk, etc.)
Less breathable
Wrinkle resistant
Shrinks less

Once you have decided upon the composition of the fabric, you should consider the weave of the fabric. Here are the three most popular:

Broadcloth
A closely woven cotton with a narrow crosswise rib.

Oxford
A cotton cloth of a tight basket weave.

Poplin
A ribbed cotton fabric.

CUFF

There are two types of cuffs commonly used in men's shirts. The button cuff and the French cuff. The only 2 things to keep in mind is that your shirt cuff should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer than the bottom of your jacket sleeve and the cuff is not so wide that it rides up your arm.

French Cuff
The French cuff shirt is dressy in nature.

Button Cuff
The button cuff shirt is more traditional.

For a more personalized look it is recommend that your left cuff is monogrammed.

POINTERS

How to pick a good shirt

The shirt must have removable collar stays.
The shirt should have mother of pearl buttons.
The pattern of the shirt should match exactly throughout the shirt.
The more stitches per inch, the better the quality of the shirt.
Make sure that the shirt is made of good quality material (poplin, oxford, etc.).

Shirt size
It is recommend that you go to a professional to find out the size of shirt that would best suit you. But, if you decide to do it on your own, you will need a tape measure and maybe some help.

Collar size - Measure the circumference around your neck to get the neck size. A rule of thumb is that you should be able to get 2 fingers between the collar and the neck.

Sleeve length - Measure from the back of your neck, in the center, straight down your arm to about 1/4 of an inch below your wrist.

JACKETS

There are several styles of Jackets to choose from. Here are the most popular types:

Two-button
Without a doubt the two buttons is the most popular style jacket in professional dress. The suit should be buttoned at the top button only. This suit has longer lapels which shows a lot of the wearers shirt and tie.

Three-button
This suit should be buttoned at the top button, top two buttons or the middle button only. Higher button placement and lapels show less of the shirt and tie. Does not work well with very short guys.

Four-button
On a four-button suit, you should button the top three buttons, leaving the fourth button unbuttoned. This suit should not be worn by shorter guys and are very fashion focused.

Double-breasted
This is a very formal suit. The double-breasted suit should be fastened at all times and never worn open. Double-breasted suits come in either one or two button. This suit is great for men with athletic builds and should not be worn by men with a larger mid section.

Blazers and Sportcoats

Blazer
A blazer is a solid color jacket with brass buttons. It is more casual in nature, but can span into executive casual with the right tie and trousers.

Sportcoat
A sportcoat is a jacket that may vary in pattern and fabric, but does not have brass buttons. Sportcoats are worn for a more casual look and can be worn with either button-up dress shirts or collared knits.

Three-Piece Suits
A three-piece suit consists of a jacket, vest and trousers. Three-piece suits roll in and out of fashion flavor. When dry cleaning a three piece suit take all the pieces with you.

Vents
The primary purpose of vents is to make the jacket lie flat. Depending on your height and weight choose from a ventless jacket, a single vent jacket (most popular) and finally a double vent jacket.

size Chart
Short 5'8" and under
Regular 5'8" - 6'0"
Long 6'0" - 6'4"
Extra Long 6'4" and above

Tips

When buying a suit, stick with the highest quality. Put 100% wool at the top of the list.
Remember the touch test to determine the quality of the fabric, if it feels good to the hand it will feel good to the body.
Never wear a button down dress shirt with a double-breasted suit.
Have your suits altered by a professional for a good fit.
Remember your height and weight when choosing the right business suit.
Don't wear a suit jacket as a sport coat.
Sport coats offer a wide range of style possibilities, blazers do not.

JEWELRY

Rings
The saying "less is more" applies here. Limit the number of rings to one per hand: a wedding band (if applicable) and possibly a college ring.

Tie Bars
This is used to clip your tie to your shirt. This keeps your tie stationary.

Tie Pins
This is also used to pin your tie to your shirt, keeping it stationary. This is not recommended because it often destroys your ties by making holes.

Tie Chains
This is another way to keep your tie stationary. This method is most preferred because it does not destroy your tie.

Cuff Links
Cuff Links are used to secure French Cuffed shirts. When choosing a good set of cufflinks, they should be conservative and of good quality.

Watches
Being on time is equally as important as looking your best. Like the clothes you wear, there is a lot that can be told about a man by his watch. Whether you decide to go with white/yellow gold, stainless steel or platinum, choosing the right watch can be difficult. Here is a comprised list of the greatest world-renowned timepieces. Those timepieces are as follows: Omega, Patek Phillippe, Tag Heuer, Rolex, Zenith, Baume and Mercier, Concord, Ebel, Cartier, Hamilton, Audemars Piquet and Breitling.

SHOES

TYPES OF SHOES

For a professional appearance, there are two types of shoes to choose from Lace-up and Slip-on.

STYLES OF SHOES

Although there are several different styles of shoes, here is a list of the most common in professional dress.

Plain-toe
This shoe is only for dressy/formal events.

Cap-toe
This shoe is the most preferred and can be dressy or casual.

Wing-tip
This shoe is mainly used for dress, but can also be worn casually.

Tassel Loafer
This shoe can be used for dressy and casual.

TYPES OF SOLES

Rubber
This is a very comfortable sole, but it doesn't last as long as your leather sole and most rubber soles are casual.

Leather
Not as comfortable as your rubber sole, but it is very durable. Most of your high quality shoes come with leather soles or a combination of both. Unlike rubber soles, leather soles can be resoled, thus extending the life of the shoe.

UPPERS

The most common leathers used in men shoes are:

Calfskin: Leather made from the skin of a calf. A very durable leather and a great choice for a nice professional dress shoe.

Cowhide: Leather made from the hide of a cow. Cowhide is generally used for casual dress shoes.

Kidskin: The skin of a young or sometimes mature goat. Kidskin is a soft leather that carries a medium price tag.

Suede: Leather with a napped surface mainly used in casual shoes.

Alligator: The leather from an alligator hide. A very elegant dress shoe with a high price tag.

Cordovan: A dense non-porous leather tanned from the inner layer of a horsehide. Generally reddish-brown in color. Cordovan is a durable leather with a medium to high price tag.

COLORS

Black is the color most preferred in a corporate setting, but burgundy/cordovan and chestnut are also acceptable.

TIES
Below are the patterns most preferred for professional dress:
Woven Pin-dot
Solid
Paisley
Stripes
Small Pattern

POINTERS
How to pick a good necktie:

A good necktie will be in three parts. The parts will be hand or machine sewn together.
Silk is the most preferred fabric for neckties. Wool and cashmere are also popular fabrics for neckties.
The best way to tell a good necktie is the "touch test."
A good necktie will have a loop underneath to place the thin end of the tie through.

For a power tie, choose colors in the red family (red, burgundy, wine, etc.).
Your knot should fill up the opening in your shirt collar when buttoned.
Solid ties work well with striped or patterned suits.
Do not wear a striped or large patterned tie with a striped shirt.
The bottom of the tie should meet at the belt buckle.
Make sure the tie lays flat against the body.

TROUSERS
PLEATS
Flat Front
Flat Front trousers look good on a man with a slimmer build.

Single Pleat
Single Pleat trousers look good on a man with a medium build.

Double Pleat
Double Pleat trousers are the most preferred. Double pleats help hide a larger waist line and thicker thighs.

Triple Pleat
Triple Pleat trousers are more fashionable. These are not found in most business suits.

Double Reverse Pleat
Double Reverse Pleat trousers are too fashionable to be worn with suits.

FABRIC
Multi-fiber: An extremely fine synthetic fiber that can be woven into textiles with the texture and drape of natural-fiber cloth but with enhanced washability, breathability, and water repellency.

Flannel: A soft woven cloth of wool or a blend of wool and cotton or synthetics.

CUFF
The cuff should be 1 to 1 1/4 inches for guys up to 6 feet tall, and 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches for guys over 6 feet tall.

Depending on the break, the cuff should never touch the ground or cover more than three quarters of the wearer's shoe.

POINTERS
Pleats should always lie flat.
The hem should always be straight.
The waistline of the trousers should fit comfortably.
You will be able to add or subtract 2 inches in the waist without distorting or having to take in the seat of the trousers.
The zipper should always lie flat.
Your pockets should always remain closed.

ACCESSORIES
Belt
When choosing the right belt, stay away from very large belt buckles. The buckle should be 3/4 to 1 inch wide. Make sure your belt is long enough to buckle the second hole. Gold buckles are seen the most, but silver buckles are acceptable. The belt should match your shoes. Black is the color most preferred. High quality leather is the best choice. Avoid a belt with a high gloss.

Suspenders
Suspenders are more elegant and allow pants to hang better. They do not cinch the pants at the waist as belts do, allowing for more room. Suspenders attach to buttons on the inside of the pant waist in the front and back. Pants using suspenders should be a quarter to a half-inch larger in the waist. Suspenders should be conservative, and made of silk, nylon, and/or leather. Avoid clip on suspenders.

Socks
Socks should coordinate with your trousers (with a dark color suit) or with your shoes (with a light color suit). Avoid socks that get lots of attention. Stick with very simple or solid patterns. Natural fibers such as cotton or wool are your best choices. Some things to look for are: toe reinforcements, nylon top band, breathability and make sure they are long enough to reach over the calf.

Pocket Square
For a more sophisticated look, you may want to consider wearing a pocket square. Pocket squares should be made of silk, compliment your suit and tie, and not match the pattern of your tie exactly. Try to stick with solid colors.

Overcoat
Overcoats are used to protect against inclement weather. They come in a wide variety of fabrics including, but not limited to: cotton, wool and cashmere. Some also have linings in them, which is great for cold weather. They should be large enough to fit over your suit or sportcoat.

Wallet
When choosing the right wallet keep several factors in mind. Stick with quality leather. The colors most preferred are black and brown. Get the standard size wallet for professional dress, not one that you place your checkbook inside of. The top of the wallet should not be seen above your pocket. Remember, stay as conservative as possible.

Briefcase
Remember your briefcase takes the form of your job. Whether you are choosing a briefcase for status, a laptop, or for carrying around books and manuals, keep these factors in mind: choose a briefcase of high quality leather, a lock if carrying important items, and make sure it is large enough to properly carry all of your items.

Planners and Organizers
You have a presentation to do, kids to pick up from practice, PTA meeting at 6:00 PM and the list goes on. Being organized is just as important as looking your best. What better way to manage it all than having a good planner? Whether you decide on leather or electronic.

DAILY WEAR
There are a few things that you will need in your wardrobe for everyday wear. Experts recommend the following wardrobe to get you started. Keep in mind your company's dress code when making your decisions.

SUITS
1 navy (solid)
1 charcoal (solid)
1 gray (solid)

SHIRTS
3 White button-down
2 White tab-collar
3 White point-collar
2 Blue (any style collar)

TIES
4-6 in the red family
2 yellow
1 green
1 navy
1 black

SOCKS
6 black (solid)
4 navy (solid)
5 patterned (any color)

SHOES
1 black cap toe
1 burgundy loafer
1 brown (any style)

BELTS
1 black
1 burgundy loafer
1 brown

BLAZER/SPORTCOAT
1 blue blazer
1 sportcoat (any color)

TROUSERS
1 navy
1 black
1 gray
1 tan or taupe

DRESS CASUAL
For a very powerful dress casual presentation, here is a list of items you should consider for your wardrobe. Remember to stay within the lines of your company's dress code.

Sportcoats
1. To get you started, you should invest in a navy and an olive sportcoat.
2. To expand your wardrobe in the future, you can add a brown and black.

Trousers
1. Start with a pair of taupe, gray and olive tropical wool trousers.
2. To expand your wardrobe in the future, you can add charcoal and black.
3. Make sure your trousers are pleated and cuffed.

Shirts
1. Start with a red and a light blue long sleeve, point collar dress shirt.
2. Invest in solid colored knit shirts: red, gray, and black to start with.

Belts
1. Begin your wardrobe with a black and a brown belt.
2. Invest in belts that are all leather.
3. In the future, add a burgundy belt.

Shoes
1. Start off with a pair of black and brown tasseled loafers.
2. Later, add a pair of burgundy tasseled loafers to complete your wardrobe.
3. As an alternate, you can wear lace-up shoes in either plain or cap toe.

FORMAL
Exert's suggest that you invest in a tuxedo. The average business professional will attend several formal functions yearly.

FUNCTIONS
Black-Tie function: This function requires that you wear a black dinner jacket, black bow tie and either a black cummerbund or vest.

White-Tie function: This function requires that you wear a black dinner jacket, white bow tie and a white vest.

PARTS OF A TUXEDO
- Shirt
- Shoes
- Bow Tie
- Trousers
- Cummerbund
- Dinner Jacket
- Cuff links and shirt studs
- Suspenders (optional)
- Vest (optional)

TIPS
- Black patent leather, lace-up, shoes are preferred.
- The tuxedo shirt can be either spread or point collar.
- If the function is not specified that it is black tie, a dark suit is acceptable.
- A white dinner jacket can be substituted for a black dinner jacket in warmer months.
- When choosing a dinner jacket, a single or double-breasted shawl collar is preferred.

INTERVIEW
Before interviewing with a company, research to find out about the company's dress code. Here are some suggestions to guide you:

The Suit

A two button, single-breasted suit with a back vent is always a safe way to go.
The colors should be either navy, charcoal or gray. Remember to stick with darker tones.
Pinstripe, plaid or solid suits are most acceptable.
For positions which gear more towards creativity, such as advertising or marketing, you may wear three or four-button suits. Olives and tans are also a possibility.
The suits should be of high quality and made of 100% worsted wool.

The Suit

A white shirt is the best choice for an interview.
For a more professional look, choose a tab or point collar shirt.
The shirt should be 100% cotton and freshly pressed.

The Tie

You should choose a power tie (from the red family).
If your tie has a pattern, the pattern colors should match the color of your suit.
The tie should be 100% silk.
Stay away from clip-on ties.

The Shoes

Lace-up shoes are a great choice for an interview.
The shoes should be either wingtip or cap toe.
Black is preferred, although burgundy/oxblood is also acceptable.

The Belt

The belt should match the color of the shoes.
It should be as conservative as possible.

The Socks

The socks should match the suit.
The solid colors are generally the safe way to go.

Pointers

If you use cologne, do not over do it.
Remember to have your suit pressed before the interview.
Limit your jewelry to one ring per hand.
Do not wear earrings.
Make sure that your shoes are broken in prior to going for an interview.
Do not wear suspenders and a belt.
Make sure your breath is fresh.
Make sure your hair, nails and any facial hair are all well groomed.

SEASONAL
Spring Wardrobe
As spring approaches, experts recommend four suit essentials to add to your current wardrobe.

SUITS
Khaki
This is a spring essential, opt for a two or three-button in tropical wool.

Grey
Perfect for the spring, this suit works well with lighter colored shirts and ties.

Glen Plaid (tan)
A very sophisticated look, great with a green, red or blue shirt.

HOT SHIRTS
Add some color to your shirts. Here is a list of the hottest colors for spring wear

Purple - Red - Green - Royal Blue

Remember, plaid shirts are great for spring wear. Opt for the button-down or spread collar.

SHOES
Wear plenty of brown and black. The styles most preferred for spring wear are:

Cap toe - Tassel loafer - Square Toe

TIES
Finishing touches are important. Here are some colors and styles to invest in:

COLORS
Purple
Orange
Yellow
Red

STYLES
Small Pattern
Solid
Stripes
Plaid

TOP

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